DAY 224 SUNDAY 20th APRIL 2008

Eureka, CA (Miles to Date: 22160)

Yesterday was one of those biting cold days, with a chilly wind coming off the Pacific Ocean. It feels more like New York than California!! Fortunately it is not raining, but is threatening, so we decided to bite the bullet and head out for a few hours. Today our destination is the village of Ferndale, known for its well-preserved Victorian buildings, which are also known as "Butterfat Palaces" due to their construction during the 1880’s when considerable wealth was generated in the dairy industry. Ferndale is a popular film location and is featured in movies like The Majestic with Jim Carrey, Outbreak starring Dustin Hoffman and Salem’s Lot starring David Soul and James Mason.

After parking up we take a gentle stroll down the high street to look at some of the buildings with their ornate ginger-breading, some to the extent of gaudiness. As you might expect Ferndale is on the tourist trail so many of the shops are oriented to this trade. We do find a small café, and after the mornings exertion we feel justified in a coffee and some blackberry pie. Of course we are not here just to eat and drink, so we find our way into several of the arts and craft stores on the main street. One of these stores is attached to a museum which is dedicated to the Kinetic Grand Championship. The kinetic sculpture race is an organised contest of human-powered amphibious all-terrain works of art. It is also called the "Triathlon of the Art World" because art and engineering are combined with physical endurance during a three day cross country race that includes sand, mud, pavement, a bay crossing, a river crossing and major hills. Ferndale is the endpoint of the annual Kinetic sculpture race as well as being the town where the first race began when Hobart Brown was challenged to race his odd-looking five-wheeled bike down Main Street on Mother's Day, 1969 by local sculptor Jack Mays.

Just a short drive from Fernadale across the Eel River is the small town of Loleta, a quaint dairy farming community, where there is a cheese factory and store. Mark never knowingly passes a cheese shop, especially when he knows there are samples on offer. When we get there they are making cheddar cheese in the factory – which you can watch from the comfort of the shop through a large glass window. The factory makes premium and organic cheeses, with varieties of flavoured Cheddar and Jack cheeses; including Jalapeno Cheddar, Garlic Jalapeno Jack, Havarti with herbs and Hickory Smoked Jack, to name just a few. We ,of course, have to try all the different varieties on offer – and of course eat too much. Naturally we didn’t want to be too cheeky so we did buy some cheese before we left.The lady serving us was so taken with Emily that she rushed into the factory side and took a pot of curds for her to try......they were so fresh they squeaked! Delicious!

DAY 222 FRIDAY 18th APRIL 2008

Eureka, CA (Miles to Date: 22115)

Yesterday was our last day in the Bay Area and today we are greeted again by typical Pacific Coastline weather, with cold coastal fog layering our campsite. We had been fortunate with the weather, it had been mostly sunny, but this is more the norm, with the temperature inversion between cold sea and warm air creating a sea mists. We decided to spend the morning doing some chores and by the time we finished these it was late morning, the mist had burnt off and it was now a fine, warm day.

At the Girl Scout meeting Emily had attended the prior Friday she had made a friend in Annie, and as children have a wont to do they had planned a play date. So after a bit of a telephone tag we finally arrange to meet at a horse stables in Portola Valley, where Annie’s family has a share in a horse. When we get there we are greeted by Annie and her Aunt, Lynda who was the leader at the Girl Scout meeting. There is a bit of an administration booboo so the horse is being used by someone else, but the children happily entertain themselves in the hay barn on the stacked up bails of hay which make a great jumping platform. By the time the other lady is finished with the horse, Weasel, time has gone by and the horse is hot and tired with it exertions on this warm day. Annie takes him out for another short workout, after which he is worn out but Emily does get a chance to sit on Weasel. Again the children conspire and before we know they are plotting to go back to Annie’s house in Foster City and go kayaking on the waterways there.

Well -in for penny in for pound and off we go to Foster City. Annie’s father John and her brother Sam had carried out the kayaks and a canoe for us to use. Annie and Emily set off on a tandem kayak whilst Mark and Jack get to use the canoe. We paddle around for a few minutes and much to Mark’s relief everyone else wants to come in. Jack and Emily had been warned about not getting wet – well obviously this was a rather pathetic attempt on the adults part to get some control. Of course we might as well not have wasted our energy. In no time at all they were back out in the water capsizing the kayaks and trying to climb back in, after the novelty of this had worn off they decided to climb on to the back of the inverted kayaks and use these as diving platforms. It was getting cold but as usual the children seemed to be impervious to this.Finally we manage to extract Jack and Emily from the water and it is amazing how quickly they suddenly start to feel the cold. The car provides us all with a welcome relief from the chilly wind and we set off back to the campsite.

Today we left Pescadero and headed north up Route 101 across the Golden Gate Bridge. Karen, Jack and Emily take a short detour in San Rafael to visit the campus of Guide Dogs for the Blind. As many of you know while we were living in New York we worked with the Guiding Eyes for the Blind organization, socialising over 45 puppies at our house and caring for 3 brood dogs. It was interesting to see another organisation’s approach to their training and development programmes. The whole operation was very professional and the presentations slick, but there was no real opportunity to handle any puppies which was very disappointing. Soon it was time to continue our journey north up 101 to the old lumber city of Eureka in the north western corner of California. The journey is pretty slow, but takes you through glorious countryside with tree lined hills, distant snow capped mountains and coursing rivers. In between there are areas of more open countryside with green, gently rolling hills with cows in pastures. Made us all feel a bit nostalgic for the English countryside. The end of the journey finally brings us back to rugged Pacific coastline, with sea hewn cliff walls and raw, uncombed beaches strewn with drift wood. This is one of those road trips well worth taking.

DAY 219 WEDNESDAY 16th APRIL 2008

Monterey, CA (Miles to Date: 21815)

Today for a change rather than head north up to San Francisco we decide to head south on the Pacific Coast Highway to the town of Monterey, some 70 miles south of where we are staying. The weather is sunny again today but there is a chilly wind coming off the ocean so we stay well wrapped up. Like San Francisco, Monterey does have its own Fisherman’s Wharf but this one is small, but perfectly formed and there is ,as you might expect ,plenty of shops and restaurants. Very cutesy and a bit more cosy than its' San Francisco namesake! We are amused by a sign we come across which reads “Dogs, cats and other pets must be on a leash at all times”. Oh! I wish we had bought a pet goldfish or ferret with us, mind you- not sure what we’d have used as a leash.

From here it is about a half mile or so along a walk way to Cannery Row which used to be the commercial centre of the town's fishing industry. Here a dozen or so large factories processed and packed fish like sardines and anchovies fished from the local waters. This was a tough business and it’s heyday is memorably captured in John Steinbeck’s book, “Cannery Row”. Today the old canneries are out of business: the buildings still remain but now they are shops, restaurants or apartments. Even the distinctive bridges across the streets where the packed fish were sent across to the warehouses still remain, giving the area a unique appeal.

At the very end of Cannery Row is the Monterey Aquarium one of the finest in the United States. As we had arrived quite late (it was about 1:00pm) and the entry cost was high we decided not to go in – Emily was very disappointed. We passed by the entrance to the overlook of the ocean where you can see frolicking sea otters, swimming amongst the kelp forest. As we stood there a gentleman came up and said would we like go into the Aquarium. He was a member and had a pass for 4 extra people. He must have heard us deliberating outside the entrance and then decided to treat us to the experience. This was such a generous offer – we were taken aback by this act of kindness.Karen questioned him closely ...just to be sure it wasn't another timeshare offer. Emily was thrilled!

Having been given this wonderful opportunity we obviously wanted to make the most of it. Our first port of call was the auditorium where we are treated to a live lecture by a researcher on the deep sea fish found in the 2 mile deep canyon not too far off the coast of Monterey. The footage of these weird and wonderful creatures were taken by a robotic submersible. This literally wetted our appetite for the rest of the day so we slowly wandered our way around the exhibits including several huge tanks with sharks, rays and a large assortment of other fish from the local waters. For us the highlights were the sea otter exhibit, the giant octopus and the sea dragons. In general giant octopuses are nocturnal creatures so when you see them in aquariums they are hiding in corners or under rocks. Luckily this octopus had other ideas and for some unknown reason was extremely active and seemed content to swim from one end of his tank to other, giving us the most amazing display. Karen was particularly consumed by our eight legged friend and it was a real struggle to drag her away. We were also lucky with the sea dragons, who were also unusually active. Sea Dragons are arguably the most spectacular and mysterious of all ocean fish. Though close relatives of sea horses, sea dragons have larger bodies and leaf-like appendages which enable them to hide among floating seaweed or kelp beds off the South Western Australian coast. So often when you see these splendid, delicate creatures in aquariums they, like the octopus, are elusive, hiding in the vegetation. Not today -they are out frolicking. We have a wonderful day thanks to the kindness of some total strangers.

DAY 218 TUESDAY 15th APRIL 2008

Alcatraz, CA (Miles to Date: 21615)
Today we had planned our trip the notorious prison island of Alcatraz. Before setting off we needed to get some lunch so we decide to try out the bakery -come café -come restaurant; Boudins on Fishermans Wharf. This establishment is famous for its sour dough bread and when we arrive there is a crowd watching one of the bread makers in the window making a turtle shaped sour dough creation. He has a microphone so we can hear him outside and he is being interviewed and filmed by the Travel Channel as we watch – so we get a real performance. This has finally set our minds to have a sour dough bread bowl (for those who have not tried this it is a round loaf some 8 inches in diameter with the centre scooped out and filled with a filling of your choice) – Karen goes for the Clam Chowder, Emily the tomato soup and Jack & Mark the Chilli.

By this time it nearly departure time for Alcatraz. We will be getting there in the time old traditional way that the prisoners would be transported; by boat from San Francisco. Alcatraz was a Federal prison from 1934 to 1963, and was a place where the worst of the worst got sent. All but one of the total 1600 prisoners who called Alcatraz home were transferred from other State Penitentiaries for being “naughty” boys (were trouble makers or had committed crimes whilst inside – like murdering a fellow inmate or worse, a prison guard). Such infamous characters as the gangsters Al Capone and Machine Gun Kelley and the Robert Stroud, the bird man of Alcatraz, were incarcerated here for the remainder of their lives. Alcatraz had no death row so here you left after completing your sentence or passed away from natural causes. This place had been a military fort for many years before being a penitentiary and had also been used as a military prison so its reputation as being a tough place to be had been around for many years. After the prison service stopped using it in 1963 because it was too expensive to maintain, the island was occupied by native Americans for several years during which some damage was done to a number of the buildings including several fires which wrecked the Governors residence. Fortunately the prison was made a National Park preserving it for the 1½ million visitors who come to see this infamous prison annually.

When we disembark the boat we arrive just in time to join a Ranger tour. This tour was to cover the escapes attempts from Alcatraz. Our guide today was a gruff New Yorker called Al Blank, who reminded Mark a bit of Kojak (aka Telly Savalas). This man is a fantastic narrator and provided a spell binding overview of the 34 people who tried to escape this prison island. Some of the attempts were creative, including the escape immortalised in the Clint Eastwood movie “Escape from Alcatraz” and others were bloody, in particular the 1946 incident where prison guards were taken hostage and the Governor had to call the marines in. The official line is that no one successfully escaped the island but some prisoners – such as those depicted in Escape from Alcatraz were never found, and were believed to be drowned. Why did no one escape ?Well the water is a cool 48 degrees Fahrenheit and the tides and currents are treacherous!

After our guided tour we go to the main cell block where there is guided audio tour that, with narration from some of the former guards and inmates, helps you form an impression of what sort of place this was in which to be incarcerated. For many the hardest thing was to be a mere 1½ miles from San Francisco and freedom. With the wind in the right direction the prisoners could clearly hear the sounds of the city, driving them literally mad. The tour takes you through the cell areas including block D, solitary confinement – although these cells were the largest and most modern in the block. We also got to go into the administration area with the control room, guard house and Governors office. Here we meet up with our old new friend Al Blank who introduces us to a fellow volunteer, John Ellis. Karen gets chatting, as she does, telling them about her work in the UK prison service. Well this does the trick and we are invited on a special tour into locked areas where most people don’t get to go. So we climb up to the stairs to where the prison chapel used to be – the panelled walls were removed by the occupying native Americans and used as fire wood. We also get to see the prison guards' games room and are then taken on the gun galleries where armed officers would look down into the cell block. John then takes us into a part of the cell block which was not used in the penitentiary days, but were the original cells for the military prison, and from here we climb the stairs to the old infirmary. Alcatraz was actually had a well equipped infirmary including an operating theatre and full blown sanatorium. Also here is a room where Robert Stroud (the Bird Man) was in solitary confinement for many years. Unlike the gentle, intelligent man depicted in the Burt Lancaster film, Stroud was a psychopathic killer deemed to be too dangerous to be in the area with the rest of the inmates. These areas remain closed to the general public partially due to the single access stairs but also due to the lead based paint that the continual exposure to salt water spray carried on the wind is effectively stripping off the walls. We are so lucky to see these special places. By this time we are running close to the knuckle in terms of catching the last boat back to the mainland. Unlike the inmates of this desolate place we do make our escape!

The wind has picked up and it is really, really cold and while we had planned to spend a bit more time going around Fisherman’s Wharf and perhaps catching a cable car it was just too cold. We did go on to Pier 39 where we caught a street performer doing his act – a mixture of comedy, juggling and escapology. He was actually very good. The funniest thing was right at the end of his act this old couple came and sat down at the front of the stage – and soon as he had finished and started his request for donations they got up and left like rats out of a trap. It was just as if one had said the other “ … Come on dear we’ve only just arrived and now he’s finished and pleading for money – lets slip out of here unnoticed”. Their timing was impeccable, and the performer was lost for words and his eyes just followed them, and of course being at the front everyone saw this and caused a great laugh. By now it was real brass monkey weather so we did a quick run past the Pier 39 seal lions performing, as they do, on the floating platforms and then make a dash for the warmth of our car.

DAY 217 MONDAY 14th APRIL 2008

San Francisco, CA (Miles to Date: 21315)

On Monday we decided to do a bit of a whistle stop tour of San Francisco for Jack and Emily. As always our plans to leave early to make the most of the day are frustrated by unhelpful children and general apathy, so we decided we needed to get some sustenance to see us on our way. We had been told of a bakery in the town of Pescadero – the Pescadero Country Store, just a few miles away and this seemed to be just the place. Unfortunately we have been trying to lose some weight but at such times going astray seems more than justified (or that’s at least how we see it!!). So we try out the pastries which were pretty delicious – but the best of all was their speciality artichoke bread; absolutely scrumptious!!!. Now fortified by an ingestion of sugar and carbohydrates we continue our drive north on California Highway 1. Our first stop – or drive through -is the Golden Gate Bridge which we cross and find ourselves one of two scenic viewpoints to get the obligatory photographs taken of this icon of the city. Luckily the fog so often associated with the Bay Area is not around, blown away by the stiff breeze. So it was back across the bridge and into the downtown area to find some of those very famous steep street immortalised in TV series and film car chases, such as in the Steve McQueen film “Bullit”. We take these at a more sedentary pace, particularly the steep and winding Lombard Street. It is hard to believe that anyone would build a road like this but it is absolutely amazing, although I would hate to be a resident of this particular street with so many pedestrians and cars trying this roadway.

After our brief tour of this fine city we have to get Emily down to Redwood City for a soccer practise. We had made contact with a local club team, Juventus, to see if she would be good enough to play in a club team. She was actually “trying-out” with the under 11 girls team so some of the girls were 2 years older than Emily but considering how rusty she was she did extremely well.

DAY 216 SUNDAY 13th APRIL 2008

Pescadero, CA (Miles to Date: 21315)

Yesterday was Emily’s turn to have some fun so she and Karen left mid-morning to go Pier 39 in Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco. They are linking up with some the local area Brownies and Girl Scouts who are attending the Save the Bay “In the Bay” event at the Aquarium of the Bay. About 40, mostly Brownies turned up for this event. This was an educational programme aimed at teaching the girls about the marine life found in the bay and surrounding areas and what damage is being done to this environment and what we can do to help. There are all the usual things to do in the aquarium such a touch pools with sea stars and urchins and others where you get to touch rays and small sharks. Emily just loves going to aquariums.

On Saturday evening we went back to Jack’s Scout camp where after the days activities they handing out awards and provided entertainment in the forms of songs and skits. Jack did not see us arrive and it was great to see him with his patrol having great fun. The whole thing lasted about 90 minutes and it was great fun.

This morning our first task of the day was to pick up Jack from the Scout camp. Of course he was totally exhausted and extremely grubby – not only this his tiredness made him very grumpy. Rather than take him home and let him rest we instead decided to take the children to the Great Basin State Park to go and see some of the giant coastal redwood trees. For those who have never seen a giant redwood these are truly amazing, with some specimens reaching 340ft into the sky and over 70 ft in circumference at the base. The oldest of these trees stretch back 3000 years when the Egyptian empire was at its height – truly amazing. We are in awe of these arboreal giants as we wander through the groves with the sunlight being dappled by the canopy overhead. Not for the first time on this extended journey through the United States are we struck by the spiritual essence of a place. Luckily the threats posed to these spectacular forests are now abated by state and national preservation control so we can all enjoy these giants of the forest for many years to come.


We gently wind our way back to our campsite on the Pacific coast highway. It is quite a warm day, even at 5pm so we decide to take the short walk from our motor home to the beach. We cross some extensive sand dunes; this is a conservation area so we make sure we stick to the pathway. After a few hundred yards we descend down a steep dune on to the beach. Whilst it had been fairly warm when we set off – it was considerably cooler here on the beach with the wind coming off the sea. Most definitely not sun bathing weather – the wind was the sort that gets your nipples standing to attention. The grown up Hoblets hunker down behind some rocks, and out of the wind it is quite pleasant in the sun. Jack and Emily after a brief and frigid incursion into the sea decide instead to build dens amongst the rocks – a good decision. It is not too long before we decide enough is enough, after all -despite two weeks of an eat-a-thon on Hawaii we still had considerably less blubber on us than an anorexic sea lion, and we set off for the balmier climate of the camp site.

DAY 214 FRIDAY 11th April 2008

Pescadero, CA (Miles to Date: 21015)

On our final day in Yosemite we decided to do something slightly different- a water colour class. As a part of the National Park education programme the Arts Centre just down the way from the main Visitor Centre runs free art classes. All you have to pay for is the materials; brushes, paints and paper. The course on this day was water colour landscapes, run by the artist Steve Curl a resident of the bay area. The course lasts for four hours inside the art centre starting with learning the fundamentals of water colours. Never having painted with water colours before we definitely needed this instruction. By lunchtime we were veritable experts and had painted the Yosemite Falls from a photograph – our first attempts were not so bad. For the afternoon session we were “on location” which meant sitting outside on the path near one of the park ranger buildings and painting the classic view of Yosemite Falls. Having practised our techniques in the morning it was quite simple to translate these to the real life subject and overall our paintings turned out to be very credible. Steve was a wonderfully patient teacher and we learned so much – perhaps a hobby we could carry on.

After two lovely days in Yosemite it is time to head West again, this time to one of our favourite places, San Fancisco. Rather than staying in San Francisco we opt to stay on the Pacific coastline on a campsite located 10 miles South of the small town on Pescadero (about half way between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz). No sooner do we pull in with the motor home than we have to leave to go to Girl Scout meeting in San Mateo some 45 miles away, and then after that we have to travel another 30 miles or so to take Jack to a Boy Scout camp deep in the redwood forests. Poor Emily and Jack have had so little opportunity to socialise with children over recent months this is a great chance for them to do so. Emily, as usual ,fits right in with the girls and makes instantaneous new friends and by the end of the meeting they were all hugging her good bye – she is amazing at fitting into new groups like this. The troop leader Lynda Davidson is so welcoming and Emily particularly hits it off with her 13 year old niece Annie. Emily somehow seems to be able to relate to older girls and many a teenager has taken her under their wing.

We grab a quick sandwich and head for the hills- literally. Jack’s scout camp is in the distant town of Boulder Creek. He is joining Troop 156 for the weekend Scout Camporee. There are lots of activities planned including fire making, first aid, scout values, knots, trebuchet, log carrying and rifle shooting. It is not too easy to find a camp in the woods especially with sketchy directions and the night falling. We finally found the parking lot and fortunately were met by a scout leader who pointed us in the right direction. So after a short search we meet up with the troop and their Scout Master, Jim Latimer. We could not have been made more welcome, Jim was a true gentleman and the scouts and their parents were wonderful, making Jack feel part of the patrol for the weekend. Once Jack was settled in the rest of us left – secretly he was looking forward to having his own “space”.The teddy Jack is holding is travelling the world with a variety of Scouts in sucession!We inherited him from a German lone scout at our last camporee and he has been with us for a month of travels.

DAY 212 WEDNESDAY 9th April 2008

Yosemite National Park, CA (Miles to Date: 20815)

Our first morning in the Sierra Nevadas is absolutely splendid – the sun is shining brightly, there is not a solitary cloud to be seen and the temperature is pleasantly warm. What more could you ask for. We are some 35 miles from the centre of Yosemite Valley, but on this day it is a wonderful ride through the foothills of the Sierras. The road winds along the banks of the Merced River, and its' white foaming water illuminated by the bright sunlight. After passing through the entrance to the National Park area we make our first stop at Bridal Veil Falls. These falls leap off the edge of a precipice and fall down 620 feet to the valley floor. You cannot exactly stand underneath the fall but you can get pretty close to the pool at the base and the stream that flows from there. The effect of the water tumbling over the cliff creates a light spray through which the sun shines creating a wonderful rainbow effect. The tiny droplets fall down dousing us, fortunately we are prepared for this in our waterproofs.


Now it is time for the main event – continuing down the valley towards the Visitors Centre we drive by the massive granite monolith El Capitan, its 3000 foot vertical cliffs a favourite challenge amongst the climbing communities. In fact it was first conquered in 1958 by Warren J Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 47 days (6 years after Everest was first climbed). Nowadays the improvement in equipment means people take 2 or 3 days to summit this peak. Today we are here just to observe its grand magnificence and take a few pictures. It is a such a beautiful day as the signs of spring are all around with the forests and meadows brimming with the yellows, oranges and blues of blooming spring flowers, which seem all the more finely set amongst the backdrop of granite spires and deep greens of the forest. No wonder people have referred to the Yosemite Valley as a cathedral. The Visitor Centre is set amongst the sprawling buildings of Yosemite Village and has the splendid backdrop of the Yosemite Falls. These falls are powered by the melt waters from the snow covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada, and cascade down the granite cliff from 2425 feet to the valley floor, making these the highest measured falls in the United States. The best time of year to see these falls is the spring as in the summer the snow has disappeared -ending the source for these magnificent falls. Also visible from the Visitor Centre is the other great symbol of Yosemite, Half Dome, its striking granite crest rising more than 4,737 ft above the valley floor.

Our timing is perfect as there is a Ranger led nature tour from the visitors centre. Our guide is the wonderful Eric who introduces us to the fauna and flora of the valley. He tells us how distinguish between corvids (the genus of crows, ravens and rooks) and gives us a jolly good impression of their calls. We nearly all knew the name for a group or collective of crows; “a murder” of crows, but no one knew the term for ravens. As it turns out it is called an “unkindness” of ravens. Unfortunately it is spring break in parts of California so hanging around the Visitor Centre in the middle of the day is not the best place for seeing too much wildlife, but we do get introduced to the acorn woodpecker who work in a pack (actually the collective term for woodpeckers is “descent”) to peck holes in dead trees and fill these with acorns. Other common spotting in the area included the stellars jay and ground squirrel. Nothing too exciting but still we learnt some more information about these common animals that we would not normally turn our heads for.

Before leaving we take the trail to where the Yosemite Falls finally reaches the valley floor. The final section of the fall is a mere 320 feet but is still quite spectacular, and we ignore the signs like everyone else and climb across the rocks to get a closer view. A truly wonderful place and a truly wonderful day.

DAY 211 TUESDAY 8th April 2008

Yosemite, CA (Miles to Date: 20815)

For our final two day in Vegas we decided to spend our time touring the sights of the city. This place is really a modern day Sodom and Gomorrah – it is all about gambling, drinking and sex- a true adult playground. It is a bit strange bringing children here, but lots of people do, and in amongst the adult pursuits it is possible to find some family friendly activities. We spend our time simply wandering through the hotels like Luxor, MGM, Caesars Palace and the Venetian. The huge buildings are marvellous in many ways and the scale is phenomenal. We love the detail and sumptuousness of the Venetian Hotel and its' canals complete with gondolas, but our favourite thing in the whole of Las Vegas is the fountains at Bellagio. In the past we have spent an hour and a half listening to performances, but they seem to have reduced the frequency of the performances from every 15 minutes to every 30 minutes so we only watch a couple of performances this time.

Jack and Emily just love theme park rides and Circus Circus provides the ideal opportunity with it’s Aventuredome, the largest indoor theme park in the country. Jack is by far the more adventurous of the two and just does ride after ride. Unfortunately on this occasion he takes one ride too many, and Chaos was this ride. From being queasy Jack turns green and empties the contents of his stomach -twice. He is not long put off and the following day we go down to the New New York Hotel where Jack and Karen take the Manhattan Express roller coaster that rides over the top and around the hotel. This time he comes off smiling and to re-inforce his re-found love of rides he immediately gets on again.

We are not too sad to leave Vegas, one or two days is definitely enough. It might be different if we were gambling types, but we love the open spaces and historical sites. Our next stop is Yosemite, a place we had all been looking forward to visiting since the start of this trip. It is a long haul from Las Vegas – something like 470 miles, so we planned to set-off early. The motor home had different thoughts on this so and as Mark was trying to disconnect the city water hose from the van he found he could not remove it. We ended up cutting the hose off and had to get help in removing the hose end from the fitting on the van. Never mind -we could stop at a Wal-Mart en route and get a new hose. Around 70 miles down the road as we crossed the desert towards California Karen starts to calling to Mark, who is driving ,to stop. We pull over – to our horror water is pouring out of the underneath of the cabinet in the bathroom. We mop out the bathroom and let the residual water out of our tank and set-off. After a few frantic calls Karen manages to book us into a motor home dealership in Bakersfield. We pull in around 2pm and have a worrying wait to find out whether the problem is serious or not. As it turns out the repair is simply replacing a fitting that had been worked loose this morning when Mark was trying to remove the hose. Fortunately we did not have a long delay and so we are soon on our way. As we close in on our destination, Midpines up in the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains ,the twilight falls. It is long dark before we arrive and the roads become very narrow and curved and steep – which is an interesting combination for a 36 foot motor home towing a 3 ½ thousand pound Jeep. Tired and stiff we get into our campsite at around 9pm and it is not long before we are tucked up cosily in our beds.

DAY 208 SATURDAY 5th April 2008

Las Vegas, NV (Miles to Date: 20350)

We woke on Thursday refreshed after a reasonably good night's sleep. Laura is flying back to the UK today so we go out to do a final bit of shopping for her, grab some lunch at Souplantation (our favourite salad & soup buffet) and set off for Los Angeles airport. On this occasion we were not let down by the airport and airline so Laura left on time (although her bags did go missing – along with most other peoples in the new Terminal 5 at Heathrow).

Having dropped Laura off we had to travel 70 miles north-west out of Los Angeles to Ontario, CA to pick up our RV from the dealer who had been servicing it whilst we had been away. It was good to be “home” – it is amazing how we all now view our four wheeled friend so fondly. From here we are heading to Las Vegas but the journey is too long for one day so we take an overnight stop at the small town of Yermo, CA. The trip here takes up in altitude to the high deserts of California, providing a sharp contrast with the lush vegetation of Hawaii. Although if the rainfall here increased it might look so different! After struggling up hills for most of the way we finally reach our campsite for the night.

Yesterday we move on quickly from Yermo across the California-Nevada border, where we encounter our first sighting of a casino. A sign of things to come! Eventually we arrive at our campsite which is right next to the Circus Circus casino at the north end of the Las Vegas Strip. Most campsite we stay in are out in open spaces; either in woods or deserts. Here we find ourselves in something more like a parking lot – but such is the wonderful variety of our tour.




We have visited Las Vegas before so today rather than go wandering around hotels and touring the strip we decided to head out of town to see the Valley of Fire. This was the first state park in Nevada and is located some 40 miles outside of Las Vegas. The drive is very worthwhile, on this bright sunny day these red sandstone rocks stand out in contrast to the grey and browns of the desert. As we enter the park we discover there is an atlatl competition. The atlatl is an ancient tool for throwing darts, believed to be used as far back as 30000 BC. Dart casting instruments have been used throughout the world including Inuits in the Artic and the Australian Aborigines. Jack had tried using an Atlatl back in Florida in Stephen Foster State Park and loved it. When we got there we were surprised how many people were out participating in this event. We were lucky to meet up with a very kind lady called Bonnie who allowed us all to have a go with her atlatl and darts. We then toured the various view points and main sights of the park – which was absolutely stunning on this day.

From the Valley of Fire Park it is possible to return to Las Vegas by coming around the north shore of Lake Meade, which conveniently takes us close to the famous Hoover Dam. It is two years since we last went to the dam and it had changed quite a lot mainly due to the in -progress construction of a bridge that climbs high over the Colorado River. This will relieve the traffic that currently has to take the road over the top of the Hoover Dam. Although only two years have passed Jack and Emily can’t remember too much about their last visit so it is almost like a brand new experience for them to come here again. With the end of the day closing in we spend our time walking across the dam and looking down the several hundred feet down to the river below on one side and Lake Meade on the other. This is not a place for those who suffer from vertigo. Even today this is an impressive example of human endeavour and when it was completed in 1935 it was a marvel and the largest hydro-electric plant in the world (today it is the 34th largest plant).

With night falling we head the short distance back to Las Vegas and take our time (there is not much option with the traffic) rolling down the Strip where we can see the bright light show that is free to all to see.

DAY 205 WEDNESDAY 2nd April 2008

Los Angeles, CA (Miles to Date: 20100)

Last Sunday we received an email from British Airways to tell us Laura’s flight back to the UK from Los Angeles had been cancelled. This was not entirely unexpected as we had read about the problems they were having back in London at the new Terminal 5, where Laura’s flight was due back into. Luckily we were able to get her on the same time flight on the following day but it meant staying an extra day in Los Angeles.

Mark is a long suffering air traveller and has experienced delays and cancellations for a myrriad of reasons so does not get so frustrated when things don’t happen as planned when it comes to flying, so he was phlegmatic about Laura’s flight changing. But worse was to come!!

Before leaving Maui we had half a day to do some more exploring. En route to the airport is the largest sugar production plant in Hawaii, and a museum – the Alexander and Baldwin Museum. Samuel T. Alexander and Henry Perrine Baldwin, were the founders of the company in the 1870’s. The museum is a testament to the significance the sugar industry played in the development of Maui – immigrant workers travelled from all around the world; China, Japan and Russia to name a few. This flood of immigrants created the diverse, cosmopolitan communities we now find in Hawaii. The museum is small but perfectly formed and has a wonderful collection of exhibits, papers and photographs across the years. We also get to see an interesting video that explains to us the process by which sugar cane is planted, grown and processed. As we are leaving the museum the lady behind the front desk just happens to mention that Aloha Airlines had stopped operating the day before. Well as you might have guessed we were flying on Aloha from Maui back to Honolulu to catch a connecting flight back to the mainland. Panic time!!! As it was now lunchtime and we were concerned about where our next meal was coming from we quickly detoured to Costco to pick up a snack meal from the food bar there and beetled our way across the Maui Airport, not knowing what was in store for us. As you can imagine things were very confused but fortunately for this day only Hawaiian airlines were honouring Aloha tickets so we managed to get onto an earlier flight than planned across to Honolulu. Of course in all the panic we had forgotten a few of the basic principles of airline travel – like removing water bottles from our hand luggage so we got a bit delayed going through the security checks. Karen suspects that the ban of liquids through security is a plot between the airlines and water and perfume companies to boost flagging sales – who knows ,such conspiracy theories often have some basis of truth in them. At least we were lightly dressed being in the tropics so there were no 20 layers of clothing to remove as there would be in New York at this time of year.

Having made it to Honolulu well in time for our connecting flight we started to relax, and the flight was even running on time. So we were happy when we were in our not -so- comfortable seats on the Continental flight back to Los Angeles and pulling back from the gate.

Not so fast!!!

The plan stopped taxiing and sat there for several minutes – we sat there patiently expecting that there was some air traffic control issue or some other relatively mundane factor preventing our take off. So we sat and sat. This flight was very full so we had been split up. Mark had the unfortunate pleasure of being seated next to two young teenage girls. Even as we taxied one of them managed to throw-up (fortunately into a sick bag) and then proceeded to make a joke of this with her friend by wafting it continuously under her nose. At times like this Mark is glad to have no sense of smell, closed his eyes,and turned up his iPod volume to drown out their inane conversation. We prayed for a quick resolution to the problem, but no such luck! It was a technical problem and after a good number of minutes of the pilots trying to clear the problem we had to return to our gate. There was a problem with one of the sensors connected to the fuel pump of one of our two engines (four engine planes always give you more comfort in such situations) so the technicians were called out. They continued to work – but things were looking bad. In a moment of compassion or more likely a matter of safety while they tried out the repair work by running up the engines we were allowed to disembark the plane. Now Honolulu airport at 11:30pm does not have much to offer, with all the retail shops locked up and workers safely at home tucked up in bed. In fact it was a ghost town apart from us poor travellers and a few, marooned airline staff. The prospect of another night in Honolulu loomed. Luckily the technicians performed their miracle and the problem was fixed and we cheerfully, at least as much is possible in the context of 4 hour delay on an overnight flight, returned to our seats. This boarding was, as you might expect, total mayhem as we all shuffled back to our positions in no particular order. It might have gone better if the surly Continental flight crew had been more helpful with people trying to carry their sleeping children and possessions back to their seats. Eventually all were on board and we finally took off. By this time we were all knackered and could not even bring ourselves to watch the in-flight movie – Mr Magorium's Magical Emporium, starring the wonderful Dustin Hoffman.

Four and half hour later our ordeal is over and we land in Los Angeles at 7:30am, having had little or no rest. Thankfully our bags turn-up and we catch the shuttle to the long term parking lot to retrieve our car. Wearily we load our bags, climb in and turn the ignition. Nothing!!! We try again …. Not a peep from the starter motor. The battery is totally flat. Amazingly very few expletives were used at this point – we were too tired to even swear. Karen managed to find a kind man who worked at the parking lot who fetched up his battered Datsun and we managed to jump start the car but soon as we removed the cables the engine died. So it was time for the cavalry so we called AAA and they sent out their recovery man – who ,to his credit, was with us within 15 minutes. A man of few words (perhaps he had just flown back in from Hawaii as well and was consequently grumpy) he got us started and we followed him a few miles before pulling over and pointing us in the direction of a garage. It turned out our battery had seen better days so it was time for it to go to the great, but environmentally safe, battery dump in the sky, and for it to be replaced by a newer, younger model to take us on our way.





So now firmly on terra firma we have now a day to kill in Los Angeles but to be honest we are too tired to do anything so we chill out until we can book into our hotel room in mid-afternoon. Soon as we get into our room the bags are dropped on the floor and we hit our beds for a couple of hours snooze. When we wake it is about 6pm and we are getting hungry. Our plan is to go to a restaurant we visited last time called C&O Trattoria down in Marina Del Rey by the beach. This is a pasta restaurant, but does the nicest bottomless garlic balls appetiser and an honour system for the wine – also the atmosphere is fantastic as it is always busy. At one point during the meal they crank up the volume of the entertainment system and put on the classic song “Amore” – everyone sings, Jack and Emily particularly like the line “when the moon in the skies reflects in your eyes like a large piece of pie … Amore!”. The waiting staffing have at this point stopped serving and are mingling amongst us with a glass of wine clinking glasses and saluting with the patrons. A good end to a long day.

DAY 203 MONDAY 31st MARCH 2008

Maui (Miles to Date: 20050)

Yesterday we chose to explore a bit more of Maui, the weather was a bit more overcast so it seemed quite a good day for doing this. Most people take the drive around the south coast of Maui, known as the Hana Highway. Not wanting to follow the norm we decided to go around the more rarely travelled road around the north side of the island.

Directly north of the town of Lahaina is an area which is protected by the West Maui Mountains and is primarily beach side vacation resort complexes. As you progress further along this road the landscape changes from beaches to a more rugged, cliff lined coastal area. Here the trade winds blast the shore line with heavy seas and the rains provide a continuous deluge of warm soaking rain, resulting in dense, lush vegetation. Off to the north-west is the neighbouring island of Molokai. The road here is paved and good for driving on. We stop briefly at Nakalele Point, where small piles of stones are stacked up, which appears to be more to do with modern passers by rather than any ancient dwellers of the area. To mark the threat that this rugged section of the coastline posts to passing shipping there is a lighthouse. On this exposed cliff we are buffeted by the Trade Winds, blowing away any cobwebs we may have had. Moving on from here the road narrows to barely a single carriageway, this combined with steep hills, hair pin bends and no barriers on the road side preventing falls of several hundred feet was enough to set Karen’s nerves on edge. Helpfully there are plenty of signs saying “narrow roadway”, in case we had not noticed. The route seems to be very popular with cyclists; actually it feels more like a cycle route than a road. We are passed several times by the same group of cyclists along the route. The most exciting parts are where you meet traffic coming the other direction, here you have to pull into tiny passing pull-ins and squeeze past each other. It is really hair raising – although the locals seem to think nothing of it. We see some signs for a road side stall that claims to sell the world’s best banana bread, we stop without question as much to get some relief from the journey as to try the cake. Onwards and upwards – we don’t immediately tuck into our latest acquisition but instead use this as an incentive to get further along the road. A few miles later we find a larger enough area to safely pull off the road, with views through a lush valley down to the sea – an ideal place to eat banana bread! From here the road continues its winding passage for another mile or two, but thankfully we get on to a “normal” highway. After the “thrill” of this ride we need something to calm our nerves so we take the Hana Highway a few miles out of Kahului to the beach at Paia. Here the waters are a blue-turquoise and the surf is high. Jack, Emily and Laura have some fun in the crashing waves, Unfortunately the wind is blowing hard and whipping up the grainy sand and acting like a sand blaster on anyone around the beach. We don’t stay too long.

Sunday was also our 12th wedding anniversary – who thought we’d be here in Hawaii for this. To celebrate we went down the Lahaina to the Aloha Mixed Plate, which is next to the Old Lahaina Luau. Here we go to watch the sun go down whilst drinking Mai Tai. It could have been romantic apart from the children being there.

Today is our last full day in Hawaii. We decide to go out to Iao State Park in the West Maui Mountains, a lush valley a short distance away from the port town of Kahului. The weather in the mountains can be unpredictable, with frequent rain but today we were lucky! Ancient Hawaiians named this valley 'Iao (Supreme Light) in honour of the god 'Io, and people came to the site to pay tribute to this important deity. A rock pillar that rises out of 'Iao Stream, and is now called 'Iao Needle, was once used as a natural altar.

The Iao Valley was an important political centre in ancient Hawaii, it was the site of many battles and the bones of hundreds of warriors were scattered here. For hundreds of years, Hawaiian chiefs were laid to rest in secret burial sites along the walls of the valley, and one of the most important battles of Maui's history was fought here. From the car park there are a steep set of stairs climbing up to a vantage point where you can see the Iao Needle very clearly. From here we descend to the creek; there are some pool areas where you can get in and enjoy the cool mountain spring water. We find one pool that is easy to access although when we arrive it is full of a school party of teenagers from Washington State. Today’s teens are not too hardy so they are not up for hanging around in the cool waters for too long so after a few minutes we are alone to enjoy the pool all to ourselves. Truly wonderful to in fresh water for a change after months of being in the sea or chlorinated pool water…. a bit chilly though! This is a fantastic way to end our week here in Maui and all there is left to do is to go back to our vacation home for one more sunset down on the beach.

DAY 201 SATURDAY 29th MARCH 2008

Molokini (Miles to Date: 19950)

Yet another early start today as were on the 7:30 am snorkel cruise from Lahaina Harbour to the partially submerged volcanic island Molokini. All that is left of the volcanic cone is one edge of the caldera -the rest has been lost to the sea, which is fortunate because the shallow waters of the former crater are an ideal habitat for coral to grow in, and where there is coral there are ravenous fish feeding on the plentiful and diverse organisms that live there.


Our vessel today is the Lahaina Princess, captained by Darrell and ably assisted by crewmates Emily and Gabe. We pull out of the narrow harbour and start the hour long trip out to Molokini. Captain Darrell has a well scripted witty repertoire, developed over the years of these daily sailings. Our favourite quip is during the safety drill when he says “should the boat lose buoyancy during our trip snorkels and masks will drop down from over head”. We had not had time for breakfast at home so we were grateful for the muffins and fruit selection offered on-board – although it was not a patch on the meal we had had the day before at the luau. It is a gorgeous sunny day (as it seems to be most days here) and the Lahaina Princess cuts through the blue ocean waters. All of a sudden we come upon two adult humpback whales and a calf; they pass within 50 feet of the boat. As the rules of this sanctuary dictate we have to disengage engines when within 100 feet of whales so we simply have to wait and watch the animals gently go by. As soon as they are gone we power back up to full speed, by this time we have left the protective shelter of the West Maui Mountains and entered an area which is exposed to the blustery effects of the Trade Winds. The choppy waves deflect off our bow throwing spray upwards and gently down on to those of us on the upper deck. Fortunately we are dressed for swimming so no problems here – the light droplets and wind are keeping us cool on this hot day.

We reach the more sheltered and shallow waters of Molokini where we find another dozen vessels hauled up – all there for the same purpose as us. Gabe dives down to tie the boat to the underwater mooring. It is then masks, snorkels and fins on and into the water. Whilst the waters here are not as warm as those around Florida they are quite pleasant so there is no need for wetsuits. The best way in was to simply jump off the back of the boat so that is what we did. From the boat it was about 50 yards to the inner rim of the crater where the waters beat onto the rocky shoreline, this is where the coral reef is at its best and the fish most abundant. Laura is not really keen on the snorkelling but the rest of us head out. There are some interesting fish here but they are not as abundant and the coral is not as impressive as other places we have snorkelled in recent weeks so it is a little disappointing. Our best discovery is after Jack and Emily have returned to the boat, when the grown-up Hoblets see a 5 foot long eel swimming in the ocean. This is a rare sighting as they spend a lot of time holed up in caves poking their heads out to catch passing prey.

We jump back onto the boat where a BBQ lunch is awaiting freshly cooked by Emily (not our Emily) – although not very exciting the burgers, sausages and chicken are very welcome after the exertions of snorkelling. The Lahaina Princess gets underway again aiming back towards Lahaina. By this time our Emily and “Big Emily” have become friends. It turns out the elder of the two is actually a boat skipper and takes out the dinner cruise boat most nights. We talked about England and learned the fact she had been on a boat into Felixstowe, a large container port on the East Coast of England, and hardly a jewel in the crown of the country. Unfortunately that was her only experience of the country and, as we explained, it was not the best example of our homeland. As we crossed the open waters again we entered the straits again and by this time the Trade Winds were in full motion, and we were heading more or less across them. Consequently the spray was less light droplets - more of a soaking effect. Jack and Emily loved this of course, to them this was the equivalent of a theme park log flume ride, and they sat in the seats for maximum soaking. “Big” Emily kindly bought Jack and Emily their snorkels and masks to them and sat down to enjoy the dowsing. It all looked a bit crazy.

Eventually we reach the safe haven of leeward side of the West Maui Mountains and the waters settle down to more of a gentle swell. We pass Lahaina harbour and moor up about a mile or so North. The purpose of coming here is to find sea turtles. With more space available the crew are able to put out the water trampoline, a 10 foot diameter inflatable toy – of course the children on board gravitate to this, leaving the parents some time to look for the giant chelonians of the sea. The Hawaiian green turtles reach up to 250 pounds and their carapace is about 2 ½ feet in length, so finding them is not so difficult. Fortunately the turtles were not playing hard to get and in the short time we were there we saw 7 or 8 turtles not more than 100 feet from our boat. They seemed unperturbed by us snorkelling around or the children jumping on the trampoline.Laura too saw the turtles but was more impressed with the play!

After 5 hours of fun it was time to return to Lahaina harbour. We had a wonderful time on board the Lahaina Princess and disembarked relaxed and just a bit sun burnt.

DAY 200 FRIDAY 28th MARCH 2008

Old Lahaina Luau (Miles to Date: 19950)

It may seem that we are addicted to going to presentations on timeshares nowadays but our intentions are purely mercenary, so yesterday our visit to the Kaanapali Beach Club was purely for financial gain. In fact we got $250 value worth of tours by sitting through a 90 minute sales presentation. Seemed good value -and because we know the system we manage to cut through most of the sales pitch. Whilst the grown-up Hoblets are subjected to yet another timeshare pitch Jack and Emily get to play mini-golf and Laura sits down and chills out reading magazines and books. Once we finally escape it is time to hit downtown Lahaina, we park up the car at our resort and walk into town. Whilst being extremely touristy, with more than a healthy sprinkling of restaurants and gift shops it is a fun place with lots going on … without being too tacky. There is also often a cruise liner parked off shore bringing hundreds of additional visitors to land. Despite this, and we are not usually touristy types, we actually like Lahaina town. Laura and Emily love all the gift stores, and Karen likes visiting the stores selling jewellery and pottery. Jack and Mark mainly endure the process.

Today we rose early again because we had booked ourselves in a breakfast luau at the Old Lahaina Luau, considered by many to be the finest and more traditional luaus on the Islands. A luau is simply a Hawaiian feast and usually involves dance and music in the form of hula. At this breakfast luau the food was not particularly traditional – or at least we’re not sure that scrambled egg and bacon is a hugely traditional dish here. Anyway it is probably just as well as we may have had a riot with Emily and Laura if it had been poi (made from taro) or poke (raw tuna). It was a buffet breakfast so as usual we ate too much. Our table was made up for 8 people so in addition to the 5 of us we had 3 little girls from Colorado, all around Emily’s age,Mara, Kira and Anna who were with the neighbouring table of grandparents and uncles and aunts. Emily was delighted with 3 new friends to play with. Towards the end of the meal we were treated to some traditional music and hula dancing, even with the brief explanation behind the music we could not make head nor tail of what was going on in the songs. The Old Lahaina evening luaus are more of a dinner – cabaret event with nearly 250 people but the breakfast luau is more intimate with only 80 guests, the reason being is that this is more of an interactive event. After breakfast is over we are divided in to 3 groups and taken off to “stations” where we are to learn more about Hawaiian Island culture.

The first station we stop at is dedicated to the music and the hula dancing. We are introduced to the different type of hula movement with hands, feet and body movement all being used to tell a story. The dancers themselves look somewhat miserable, so we suspect that they are bored by having to continually having to perform – only later do we learn that it is normal for the dancers to have a serious expression on their faces when they perform. It was nice to see later when they did a contemporary hula later and their faces lit up with joy. After the introduction to the movements of the hula we were shown the various instruments available to the dancers; from small drums to simple stones used as a form of castanets. Now equipped with all the knowledge required to successfully perform the hula it is our turn. We are broken up into 3 smaller groups where we are taught our moves – which is surprisingly difficult. After 5 minutes we are bought back together for a grand performance – and never have you seen 25 more uncoordinated people embarrass themselves like this in public. Fortunately nobody else was watching.

Our next station was an introduction into the history and culture of the people of Hawaii. The original settlers here were from the Polynesian islands of the pacific, who first colonized the islands around A.D. 300 and 600. We are shown a schematic of the layout of a native village, which was built around streams and rivers flowing from the mountains down to the sea. Around these streams crops of taro, sweet potato and other imported crops were grown and harvested. For the men agriculture was a major pastime, and must have been jolly hard work as the tools they had to care for the crops were primitive. We had a chance to see and handle these tools as they had examples to pass around. The women’s work was just as hard (although I am sure the men would argue differently) as they had to prepare the food and create cloth from the plants, usually by continually bashing at them with a wooden stave. The Polynesians also introduced new live stock to the islands – in particular the pig which was a staple part of their diet. The other main source of food was fish and we were given a demonstration of a weighted cast net, but they also used spears frequently to catch the fish. As a finale we had the opportunity to try out some traditional food – poi (pulverised taro plant) and raw yellow fin tuna. It was actually very good but not to the children’s liking.

The final station was to introduce us to the art of Hawaiian warfare. Not surprisingly this turned out to be Jack’s particular favourite section. On display were a number of spear, swords and clubs of various shapes and sizes. Some were very basic wooden instruments but others had been embellished by adding stones and sharks teeth for destructive power or feathers for decoration. A number of these weapons were demonstrated by the Old Lahaina Luau cast members, but Jack was all of a quiver when he actually got to handle some of the weapons himself. As well as being shown weapons we were given a talk on the life and role of the warriors in the ancient Hawaiian society and some tales of the great warriors and battles – we all to a man and women were enthralled (with perhaps the exception of Laura who was getting a bit fidgety by this stage). At the end of the presentation we were allowed to try throwing spears at a tree target – the children in the group of course were up there like a shot … Jack and Emily had about 20 throws. Eventually the more circumspect adults were coaxed into trying their spear throwing skills and fared little better than the children. If we had had to catch our own breakfast using these traditional methods we’d have been one hungry group of grumpy natives.

Three hours soon shot past and it was time to say goodbye to our new friends and the wonderful staff at the Luau. We would recommend this to anyone visiting Maui and wanting to find out more about the culture of the original inhabitants of these islands.

DAY 198 WEDNESDAY 26th MARCH 2008

Whale watching to Haleakala (Miles to Date: 19900)

Today we had an early start as were off on a whale watching boat trip leaving Lahaina harbour at 7:30am in the morning with a 7:00am check-in. The harbour ,once full of whaling ships ,is now home to an assortment of vessels providing tours and deep sea fishing excursions. Next to the harbour is a park with the most amazing Banyan Tree, which was first planted in April, 1873, and marked the 50th Anniversary of Christian missionary work in Lahaina. The tree was imported from India was only 8 feet tall. It now stands over 60 feet high, has 12 major trunks in addition to a huge core. It stretches over a 200-foot area and shades 2/3 of an acre, providing much needed shade in the hot Maui climate.

Today we are in search of North Pacific Humpback Whales who visit the waters around Hawaii form October to May to give birth and feed before returning to the cooler waters of Alaska, a trip of a mere 3000 miles. Our captain Christine assures us that there are plenty of whales out there to see so we sit back and relax for our 2 hour tour of the waters around Maui. It is not too long before we spot our first spout of water from a passing whale and our captain skilfully steers the boat towards it. For the next hour or so we are treated to numerous whales passing within 100 feet or so of the boat. Initially we see their dorsal fins which are quite short and stubby, but as we close in you get a feeling for the size of these magnificent creatures. The females (who are larger than the males) are around 45 feet in body length and weigh approximately 40 to 45 tons. We also get to see their calves which are typically 14 feet at birth, and may weigh as much as 2 tons. On occasions the whales we are observing are quite happily ignoring us and are cruising along doing back-stroke, their 15 foot pectoral fins splashing gaily as they speed along at 5 mph. Every so often the whales descend below the surface and we see their huge tails (the technical term is fluke) as they disappear below the surface. It is difficult to estimate how many whales we see but it must have been 20 or so individuals. Sadly it is all over too soon but on the way back Mark gets see a humpback “breach”, which is when they completely leave the water and splash down in huge crescendo of water. Unfortunately few other people on the boat see this as they have gone into trip over mode and there was no time to capture this on film.

When we arrive back on dry land it is only 9:30 am so we still have the whole day in front of us. So we rush back to our vacation home and make a pack lunch and head off toward volcano Haleakalā (Hawaiian for “House of the Sun) which is believed to be dormant rather than extinct, although it has not erupted since 1790 (200 years is not a long time in volcano terms). In Hawaiian folklore, the depression at the summit of Haleakalā was home to the grandmother of the demigod Māui. According to the legend, Maui's grandmother helped him capture the sun and force it to slow its journey across the sky in order to lengthen the day. From the summit you look down into a massive depression some 7 miles across, 2 miles wide, and nearly 2,600 feet deep. The surrounding walls are steep and the interior mostly barren-looking with a scattering of volcanic cones. Unfortunately on the day we climbed to the summit the cloud cover didn’t allow us to see anything of this.

We take the 38 mile road from the valley to the 10,023 foot summit. As we start the journey we pass through fields of sugar cane and tropical plants, the sun is shining and the temperature is a pleasant 83 oF. By the time we reach the summit the terrain is barren and rugged, it is raining, misty and the temperature has fallen to 43 oF. On the way up we pass a number of cyclists riding down – there are daily cycle tours which take you up to 6500 feet and let you take the easy route down. Mind you the weather is not good for the first 3000 foot of the descent. The road up is long and winding and with the weather closed in there is not too much to see. When we reach the summit we brave the weather as we rush into the visitors centre to learn a bit more about the region, fortunately there is a professor from the University of Hawaii visiting who gives us a great insight into the geology of Maui and the Hawaiian Islands. As luck would have it the weather briefly clears so we take this as a photo opportunity. It is too chilly to hang around so we take the long winding road back down to the balmy temperatures at sea level.

Jack is holding a teddy bear in some of the blog photos....he is a travelling bear that we were asked to 'adopt' for a month before we fill in a scrap book and parcel him off to somewhere else. He started life with a German Scout troop and was given to Jack to look after when Jack was introduced as a Lone Scout to the Boy Scout District Camporee. The leaders felt that the bear could benefit from our travels andviewpoint of some of our locations!Now all we have to do is the scrapbook pages..............Teddy will be visiting Ardsley next to meet some Brownies we know and love and a whole bunch of Ardsley Pack 3 Cub Scouts!

DAY 197 TUESDAY 25th MARCH 2008

Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii (Miles to Date: 19750)

Sunday was Emily’s 9th birthday, birthday in paradise!!! Unfortunately there are no friends to invite to a birthday party so she has to put up with her parents, brother and sister as party guests. The best we could manage was trip to Baskin Robbins and a sundae. Never mind -Emily seemed happy enough. After this we went back to the tide pools and did some more snorkelling. Emily used this time to take a million photos with her new camera...she is very good at composing photos and spotting interesting subject matter.Her control of the buttons puts us to shame!

Yesterday we flew from Hawaii (Big Island) to Maui. This island is a perfect figure eight in shape, with the vast Haleakala volcano at one end of Maui and the West Mountains at the other end. In between is a long flat, lush valley which used to be a centre for the sugar industry, once a major contributor to the Hawaiian economy. Shortly after landing and picking up our car we hit the shops – well ,Costco! Some people might call us sad folks getting excited about a trip to Costco but Karen almost had a heart attack after our first shopping trip to a store on Hawaii. How the locals cope with the prices is beeyond us!

Satisfied we set off to the old whaling town of Lahaina on the northwest side of Maui. We are staying in a gated residential community called Pu'amana on the ocean front, in a simple 2 bedroom house. It is amazing how much context is important when it comes to houses. If this property were in Canvey Island, Essex then it would be a council house, but here in the Hawaiian paradise of Maui it is a dream. Just a few yards from our vacation house the ocean crashes onto the narrow sandy beach – the perfect place to sit with a drink and watch the sun go down, which we do everyday during our stay. This relaxing end to the day works for the grown-up Hoblets, whilst the younger members prefer to boogie board on the impressive ocean rollers that crash down on the beach. A perfect way to end each day!!!