DAY 315 Sunday 20th JULY 2008

Kenilworth,Warwickshire (Miles to Date: 33400)


From the Peak District we head south again to stop with Karen’s aunt Barbara in Solihull near Birmingham. We decided to have a day out in the local area. Our first stop is Coventry, which for Mark is another trip down memory lane as he had spent three years there when at the University of Warwick. The centre of Coventry is modern, well relatively. Unfortunately many of the buildings are characterless, dating back to the 1960s when architects seemed to have a love affair with concrete and angular designs. Large sections of the old city of Coventry were decimated, including the Cathedral, by the Luftwaffe during the blitz of World War II. The Old Cathedral, officially known as St Michaels Church, was built in the 14th Century and remained a church until the creation of the diocese of Coventry in 1918. Luckily some the old building survived the bombing and the ruins of the old Cathedral have been turned in to a memorial. Next to these ruins has been built a new Cathedral, which unlike most of the surrounding buildings is a wonderful example of modern design. We spend sometime wondering around the roofless ruins of old St Michaels before Mark, Jack and Emily decide to climb the tight spiral staircase to the top of the tower. It is180 steps in all to the top and it is not an easy climb! From the top there are stunning views across Coventry, and the grim 60's architecture does seem a lot better when viewed from this angle.


We quickly decided there was not much else to spend time doing around Coventry so we hop back into the car and take the short journey down to Kenilworth, a small town dating back to before the time of the Doomsday Book (a survey commissioned by William the Conqueror in the year 1085 A.D). The town is full of quaint houses, many dating back centuries, with thatch roofs. The whole place is quintessentially British and of course one has to celebrate this essential British-ness in traditional way – a visit to a tea room. Oddly enough Karen and Mark are not your traditional English tea drinkers, preferring coffee. But when in Rome!! We spend some time savouring our tea and enjoying the sensations and sights of our surroundings

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Leaving the tea room we take a stroll around the older part of the village. Mark and Karen (Jack and Emily less so) are most excited by the sight of a traditional bright red telephone box and post box standing proudly alongside each other like two sentries guarding the town. When Karen and Mark were growing up these were common sights but sadly nowadays these are mostly relegated to being decorations in bars and restaurant or sitting rather bizarrely in someone’s garden as an out of place ornament. Perhaps we should start a campaign to recapture some of these traditional emblems of the British and return them to their natural settings. We need to maintain the symbol-diversity of our cultural heritage. The British people must rise and go to those pubs and peoples gardens and get back our post boxes and telephones boxes. This could be a whole topic to start a blog on.


We take a short walk down to the grounds of Kenilworth Castle.This is one of England’s most spectacular castle ruins. Kenilworth is most famously associated with Robert Dudley and Queen Elizabeth I. Elizabeth kept Dudley’s last letter to her in a casket by her bed until she died. The castle was founded by Geoffrey de Clinton, Henry I's treasurer, who began the massive Norman keep at the core of the castle in the 1120s. Over the years Kenilworth Castle was strengthened, so much so it withstood an epic siege in 1266, when rebellious barons held out against Henry III's siege engines for six months, succumbing only to starvation. The castle operated as a fortress through the English Civil War (1642 – 1651) but after that fell into decline. Today the ruins are a reminder of the castle’s glorious past, and many of the structures still stand but are incomplete.
We planned to visit Warwick Castle the following day so restricted our tour to walking around the outside of the castle walls. Although Jack and Emily lived in the UK for the first few years of their lives and had visited castles before they could not remember them so this was almost a new experience.

DAY 312 Thursday 17th JULY 2008

Hartington, Peak District (Miles to Date: 33300)


Whilst we are used to transatlantic travel it never gets to be easy, especially the overnight flights. We arrive at Heathrow in the early hours of the morning (about 7.00am) and it is the usual zoo in Terminal 3, and it is a over an hour after landing before we pass through baggage claim, immigration and depart the terminal building. The fun is not yet over as we have to pick up our rental car, which is another bus ride and then we have a long wait whilst we sort out the rental. By the time we finally hit the road it is almost 2 hours after landing and the children are absolutely exhausted.


The next stage of our tour takes us up to Leighton Buzzard to spend a couple of days with Mark’s parents and then on to Belton-In-Rutland to stay with Karen’s old friend Angela. We also stop in Stafford to see Karen’s sister Mandy, her partner Des and nephew Charlie. These have been quite relaxing days which are most welcome after our recent travels.


It only a short drive from Stafford to Youlgreave, in the splendid peak district. We are staying in the Youth Hostel in the centre of the small village of Youlgreave. Surrounded by glorious countryside, the ancient village of Youlgreave winds its way carefully along a narrow limestone shelf, between two of the area’s loveliest valleys. Bradford Dale to the south drops sharply down with pretty little cottages and their gardens clinging to the side of the valley; a little further away to the north on the other side of the hill is Lathkill Dale, considered by some to be Derbyshire’s finest dale. The long, narrow village street runs for about one and a half miles along almost the only level ground available; the footpath being lost altogether by the church, where pedestrians, who do not want to run the risk of getting run over, walk through the churchyard. As with most small villages there is a fine selection of pubs to choose from and of course we have to sample each.


The weather is wet and chilly, which is not that unusual but we had hoped for better. Most people come to the Peak District to visit the great outdoors so it is a little disappointing to have inclement weather. Fortunately not too far from Youlgreave is the old industrial city of Rotherham, once the centre of the steel making industry but now many of these mills lay dormant and the city is somewhat depressed. Taking advantage of the situation one of these vast half mile long steel mills has been turned into a hands-on science centre. Magna Science Adventure Centre has four pavilions cleverly suspended in the surroundings of the dark interior of the steel mill and as you move from pavilion to pavilion you pass amongst the eerie skeletal remains of the mill. The four pavilions pay tribute to the four elements; air, earth, water and fire. The Air Pavilion, resembling a giant zeppelin, is suspended 45 feet up in the rafters of the building. The first exhibit is a large fan that slowly ramps up and down, and at full power it gives you a real sense of being in a gale. There are air cannons to make patterns, examples of man’s early attempts at flight, a gyroscopic chair and exhibit on the air in our own bodies. The Water Pavilion is a wonderfully lit giant steel wave like structure and houses a selection of interactive games and challenges that exploring nature of water. There are water cannons and flowing water channels to build ducts and dams in. As you might expect with all this water around it is hard to stay dry. The Earth Pavilion, appropriately in the bowels of the building ,is filled with hands-on games and attractions, The centre piece of this pavilion are a set of real-life earth movers complete with buckets in which you pick up quarried materials and drop them into hoppers in a race against time. The Fire Pavilion is a perfect place to dry off after the water pavilion. At the core of the pavilion is a five-metre fire tornado that periodically leaps up from the floor. You can make cables glow red hot, paint heat patterns with your hands and race with an electromagnetic crane, feel the flow of heat and watch crystals as they melt. In addition to the pavilions, 'the Big Melt' is undoubtedly one of Magna's most breathtaking features. Heard and seen from almost every part of the building, the show is set around the original Arc furnace, unused since the days of Sheffield's booming steel industry.


After a couple of nights at Youlgreave we move a few miles to the Youth Hostel at Hartington. This is another quaint Peak District village and has special significance to us as this is the place where Karen and Mark met some 13 years ago, whilst both staying at the Youth Hostel. The hostel is a magnificent manor house standing in its own grounds and dating back to 1611. The main buildings’ common rooms have oak panel walls, stove fires and squishy sofas and there is an award winning restaurant. We are booked into a family room which has two bunk beds, which is simple but comfortable. We are still having horrible weather, and have to go into Buxton to the charity shops to buy some extra clothes for warmth. Nearby to Hartington is another place close to Karen and Mark’s heart (this is where they first kissed) is Dove Dale, a three mile stretch of the river Dove between Thorpe and Milldale. Our trail starts at the famous stepping stones near Thorpe and winds its way up the river through glades of tree and past rocky outcrops. The river is relatively calm this time of year but there are rapids and some areas where it widens and opens into deep still pools. On a hot day one might be tempted to swim or wade, but today is definitely not one of those days. It is not as rainy as it had been for most of our time in the Peak District, but it was switching between sunshine and drizzle. Despite the so-so weather it is still a magical place to be.

DAY 303 Tuesday 8th JULY 2008

New York, NY (Miles to Date: 33000)


The final leg of our cross country trip takes us down through Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New Jersey and finally New York. We do fit one overnight stop in Pennsylvania. This was very much heads down and go, but we did pull off when we saw signs for the BWP baseball bat factory at Brookville, PA. It was quite late in the day and we found ourselves to be the only people in the car park. Still they could not have been friendlier and were only too pleased to show yet another group of people around their factory. BWP (we believe this to stand for “Built With Pride”) is a bit of a “Mom & Pop” business but provides bats to a number of Major League Baseball players. The wood is taken from local trees, apparently Pennsylvania is the capital of hardwood in the US and is bought to the factory in rough hewn billets. The factory processes are relatively simple; the billets are turned to give the basic bat shape. The bats are weighed and categorized and then they are painted. Simple eh!


Our few days in New York is really intended for us to catch-up with friends. Our good friend Sandi-Lieb Geiger kindly puts us up in her house, although Jack and Emily get invited to stay with some friends. Yes alone time for parents!!! When you have been 24/7 with your children for nearly a year, however much you love your children, such moments are warmly relished. The trip usefully coincides with Independence Day, and we once again go down to Dobbs Ferry to enjoy the firework. Unfortunately the elements don’t play ball this year so we get somewhat moist whilst watching the fireworks. Another major agenda item is to visit Ocean ( a golden retriever as opposed to the sea!) When we lived in Ardsley we did a lot of work with the Guiding Eyes for the Blind Association, which initially included socialising puppies for 2 or 3 days at a time and latterly having adult brood dogs living with us. In our last 2 years in Ardsley we had 3 brood dogs; Quasia, Trish and Ocean. Ocean was our last dog and when she lived us she had 10 puppies, which we had back to live us when they were a few days old for 3 weeks before going back on the Guiding Eyes programmes.


When we left on our tour Ocean went to live with our friends the Murrays. A few weeks prior to returning to Ardsley we discovered Ocean was pregnant again, and as it turned out her puppies (another brood of 10) were delivered a week before our arrival. We just had to make the trip up the Guiding Eyes breeding kennels in Patterson, NY. Ocean was so pleased to see us and such a proud mummy. The pups were cute, but had yet to open their eyes and were really too small to pick up unfortunately. It was lovely just to see them and their wonderful mummy.


Our time in New York rushed by and it was soon time to depart for England. The flight was in the early evening so we had a morning to fill so we decided to visit the Liberty Science Center in New Jersey. We used to be member of the LSC but it had closed for our last year there and had been completely rebuilt. It was great before but now it is brilliant! There are 11 exhibition areas on 3 floors, all hands on. There are wonderful exhibits such as the Science of Survival, exploring options for a more sustainable lifestyle, Eat and Be Eaten looking at survival strategies from nature and Energy Quest looking at fossil fuels and alternative energies.


In the Infection Connection exhibit, you can explore interactions between humans and microbes to learn about emerging diseases and see how science develops tools and technologies to prevent and treat infections. There was show which showed how operations are performed. Emily was called up to act as a scrub nurse. Luckily the patient was not a person but a poor, suffering banana! Another fun activity is that you can go into a very impressive looking laboratory area, where you get all gowned up and even conduct experiments.


Our final stop is Skyscraper which explores the towering achievements of modern civilization. There are large (two stories high), scale reconstructions of the tallest buildings in the world, some of which are still in construction. There are also some hands-on experiments to show construction methods and the effects of the environment on these humongous structures. For the daredevils there is the opportunity to follow, literally, in the footsteps of those brave construction workers with a great head for heights. Suspended in the air, some twenty feet up, are a set of i-beams which you can take a tour around. For safety sake you are harnessed so should you slip the only thing you will suffer from is embarrassment as you dangle high above the ground flapping like a turkey on a bungey rope. Jack, Emily and Karen are all brave enough to try whilst Mark, using the excuse of taking pictures, stands below and watches.