DAY 5 - TUESDAY 11th SEPTEMBER 2007

Nickerson State Park (Miles to Date 265)

Another dank, dreary day in New England. The cloud hovered low above us as we rose from our first night camping. The limbs were stiff as we brewed up our first pot of coffee on on portable stove. The morning was set aside for properly unpacking. The site we are on has no water or electricity hook-ups so we have a little trek to get our water supply for the morning.

As the morning progresses the weather deteriorates further to a steady rain so we decide to head out for a while.

First stop is Nauset Light Beach. The weather is so grim that the light from the light house is clearly visible and it is only 1pm. Being British this is not so unusual a day's weather - much like a summers day on the East Coast of England. So we do as all good Brits would do we head to the beach for a paddle. Braving the driving rain we head down to the water's edge to soak our feet in the driving Atlantic breakers. Not surprisingly we did not stay long and beat a retreat back to the van.

Second stop was the National Seashore Visitors Centre at Salt Pond. This is an excellent visitors centre to visit, particularly when the rain is lashing down outside. We watched three films on Cape Cod, including its formation by glaciers during the ice age and more recent shaping by weather and sea erosion. We also learnt about the treacherous nature of the cape, when during the 19th and early 20th centuries an average of 3 ships a month were wrecked on its coastline.

Finally we visited the Penniman House in Eastham, where Captain Edward Penniman resided. Well to say resided is an exaggeration, particularly in the early years. Penniman was a whaler and his trips away on whaling expeditions could last up to 4 years at a time. The house is fairly modest, only four rooms upstairs and four down, but is well preserved and has some of the original wall coverings.

Went back to the tent just in time for the arrival of a thunderstorm. When this abated we braved the outside once again to cook our first meal on the camping stove.