DAY 287 Sunday 22nd JUNE 2008

Olympic National Park, Washington (Miles to Date: 29350)

We woke today to a cloudy and misty morning. Our plan was to take Route 101, following the coast around the peninsula to the western side of the Olympic range. This is one of the wettest places in the United States (which is not usually the place to consider visiting on a cloudy misty morning) and the home to one of the world’s few temperate rain forests. As luck would have it as we closed in on destination the Hoh Rain Forest the clouds broke up and we were greeted by lovely warm sunshine, most unusual in these parts. Our first stop off was the National Park visitor centre. We were amused by a sign posted by the Park Rangers warning that some visitors who had approached the local Elk had been charged – Mark’s only thought was how much had they been charged, has the world gone mad, even the Elk had gone commercial!!! Anyway, amusement over and time for serious tourism!! We were a little too early for one of the Ranger tours so we took ourselves onto one of the self-guided tours along the trails. The sun was by now streaming through the canopy illuminating the iridescent greens of the forest. One of the most amazing features of this rainforest is the thick, trailing mosses hanging off of the limbs and trunks of the densely packed trees! Our path takes us down to the river which carved the valleys to which the forest clings. Truly magical!

Returning to the starting point of the trail we arrive back near to our car and just in time for a spot of lunch before the Ranger led tour. This tour takes us on different trail through the forests. We were introduced to the common trees of the forest including the Sitka Spruce, Douglas fir, Western hemlock, Western red cedar, the black cottonwood, red alder and big leaf and vine maples. The Ranger explained the distinguishing features of each tree and by the end of the tour we could easily identify each species. The forest is dominated by the coniferous trees, particularly the Douglas Fir and Hemlocks and the Cottonwoods in the riparian areas by the creek and rivers. There are some exceptions where the deciduous trees have gained a significant foothold and have been able to maintain their territory gain. One magical example of this is a grove of big leaf maples, which have a high canopy of translucent leaves, allowing dappled sunlight down to the forest floor. At the same time the almost constant damp atmosphere of the rain forest had allowed the lichens and mosses to grow rampantly across the tree limbs, which then hang down like fine lace shrouds from the trees. This sanctuary has a spiritual quality which even the most agnostic of visitors must surely appreciate.

The weather remained remarkably good throughout our trip to the rainforest; rain free days are such a rarity in these parts. We decided to chance our luck with a visit to the rugged coastline of the Olympic peninsula, and travelled a few miles further south to Ruby Beach. On this part of the coast the trees descend down to the cliffs that look out across the great Pacific Ocean. As these cliffs are battered and eroded by the pounding of winter storms complete trees drop into the ocean and are washed away. These trees eventually, stripped of foliage and bark, end up washed up on the beaches as smooth, and often contorted driftwood sculptures. Ruby Beach provides a glorious backdrop to the power of nature, as along it’s shores are strewn huge trunks of trees, often piled up by the action of waves. We spend some time walking amongst the driftwood, which inspires Jack and Emily to turn into modern day Robinson Crusoes and build shelters from the wood on the beach. This allows Karen and Mark to have some alone time and enjoy the sounds and smells of the place. After and hour or so the children have to be dragged from their ever so important endeavours so we can make our way back home to Port Angeles.